All posts filed under: The Fashion System

Is Fashion dead?

I simply haven’t been able to get this article out of my mind: The Fashion Industry doesn’t even care about Fashion anymore. If you read one article this week or month, let it be this one. First I reposted it to The Fashion Crowd FB page. Then I reposted it on LinkedIn, and then to the intranet with my MA class from Academy Of Arts University, but I still feel I’m not done with it. The title says it all; The Fashion Industry doesn’t even care about Fashion anymore. It’s a very strong statement and rather negative too. Is fashion dead? Let’s explore. All the people I know in fashion are utterly passionate about it. Otherwise they simply wouldn’t be there, as it isn’t worth it. Too much hassle. It’s people who dream about fashion, spend their Friday nights on Pinterest, and who will consider their wardrobe more of an archive. So, in my humble opinion, it’s not the fashion professionals, who don’t care. Indeed we – as in a broader range of people in …

Role of Creative Directors

The Role of Creative Directors

The Creative Director is the one, who determines what a fashion collection should look like – gives the creative direction – and has the last word when it comes to the creative part. Lately, there have been many changes; to mention a few Justin O’Shea left Brioni, Peter Dundas left Emilio Pucci, Anthony Vaccarello recently showed his debut collection at YSL and Maria Grazia Chiuri showed hers at Maison Dior. But what is the role of Creative Directors, actually, anno 2016, where historic and eponymous fashion brands have outlived the founding fashion designer? So, Anthony Vacarello recently mentioned in an interview that to him, YSL is not about the actual clothes but about an attitude. Or to quote the designer himself “My idea of YSL lies in the attitude”. When he met with Mr Pierre Berger, Berger confirmed Vacarello in not trying to copy Monsieur Saint Laurent, as such an attempt can never be original, contemporary and perhaps successful. With that in mind, we’re looking at a fashion brand, where the actual brand has outlived …

Fashionable feminism

Fashionable Feminism

The recent Christian Dior collection ss17 – with the newly appointed Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri – were not only beautiful looks from one of the world’s most renowned fashion brands; there was also an important message among of fashionable feminism. While the word ‘feminism’ was first coined some 150 years ago, the battle has continues since then, but with women having achieved, if not all then at least many of the same rights as men, at least in the modern Western world, the word has somehow lost its appeal. While it essentially means ‘equal rights’ (and who can not agree to that?), it’s almost as there’s something too hippie and carnal about the word that doesn’t go well with our polished world, where things look best when having been given a filter and are being observed on the latest smart phone at a safe distance. The bra says it all. We all wear it; young girls to elderly women regardless of nationality, age and social status – everywhere. It’s a reaction to the more …

London fashion week ss17 street style

London Fashion Week ss17

London Fashion Week ss17 is over, and it has for sure been a rich experience! As we always do, we collected the looks that stood most out to us on Pinterest (check it out here) in order to sort out what inspired us. Later, when all the fashion weeks are over, we will run over it again and use it for our trend forecasting. For now, it’s just fashionable indulgence. We have previously argued that it’s important to form ones own ideas, as it’s otherwise easy to be influenced by other peoples’ opinions. The reason is that fashion is socially contextualised, and therefore we all experience fashion differently. There are no right or wrong – though there are general opinions prevailing – and at the end of the day it’s all just very subjective. This can be good to remember, when we hear various opinions pointing in east and west and don’t know what to think. Vogue praised the best 10 shows of London Fashion Week ss17 and – among others – mentioned Christopher Kane, one …

being featured in Vogue - Ksenia Schnaider

What it means being featured in Vogue

Most of the young designers that I have met in my life, including myself when I was younger, ultimately dream about one day having their own brand. And while we do so – or enrol on the arduous journey of making the dream come through – there are various milestones that we dream about; landing the first order, landing the first order in a top store, dressing a cool celebrity and perhaps being featured in Vogue or another trend-setting magazine. Of course, these are big achievements among millions of bigger and smaller tasks of various difficulties and completely worth celebrating. But once the celebration has taken off; what does it actually mean to the business and brand? Well, being featured in Vogue like Ksenia Schnaider on our cover is a big deal, because it’s a sign of approval from a one of the most trend-setting magazines around. It’s these signs of approval – that can come in many shapes such as PR, celebrity endorsement, retail outlets, customer popularity etc. – that ultimately gives a brand its status. …

Copenhagen fashion summit 2016

Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2016

If you have never heard about Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2016, today will be the first day in the rest of your life. Before I get started, check it out here: Copenhagen Fashion Summit. As HRH Princess Mary of Denmark said, it’s the “Davos for fashion.” Cool. It’s the no. 1 event in the world about fashion and sustainability. Not no. 2 and not no. 3, but number freaking 1. I’m not saying this to brag, and eventually it doesn’t really matter, but what matters is that there was such a string of exceptional speakers and such a good energy – all rounded up by brilliant and visionary Eva Kruse, who spoke about creating a movement. The reason this is of huge importance is because the fashion industry is the second most polluting business in the world, only surpassed by the oil industry. And it matters, as no one speaks about it – at least not in fashion – as it doesn’t go very well with the whole ‘selling a dream’ and ‘expressing your personality’ which …

Generation Z

Generation Z; who are they?

Generation Z, iGen, Digitarians – these are the terms for those, who were born in 1995 and afterwards. There are quite a few other names, but these are the most widely used ones. Studying, writing and reading about them has been hot for a while, and for me, personally, it is especially interesting, as I have started a blog “what being twenty is like” a couple of months ago due to my desire to explore and write about my experience as a 20-year old. It was a surprise for me, when I found out that technically I was not part of Generation Z, as I was born in 1994, which means that I am in the ‘Generation Y/Echo Boomers/Millenniums’ group. Well, this makes sense, as I felt a little out of this league anyway. In recent years, our world has been changing with an insane speed and on an extreme scale. Obviously, that has affected most of the planet`s population, but especially children and young people, as they were in different stages of development and …

New fashion cities and designers - Omelya

New Fashion Cities: Kiev and Minsk

I recently came back from a trip to Kiev and Minsk after giving two lectures about ‘Trend Forecasting’ and ‘Making a Fashion Collection’. For some years, I have been very interested in new fashion cities, as a fresh alternative to ‘The Big 4; London, Paris, Milan and New York’. I’ve been really surprised by all the fresh influence coming from Russia, Ukraine, Georgia and Belarus and continue to think, it’s really interesting places for new fashion cities with so much possibility, and enjoy seeing new designers slowly carving their way to international fame. Also this time I wasn’t disappointed; in Kiev I met with Daria Shapovalova and her whole team from Kiev Fashion Institute, and we visited upcoming designers as Omelya, Anna October, Anna K., Shushan and Lapti shoes. The next day a workshop and an interested audience, who listened carefully for 7 hours about trends. Not bad for a Saturday with sunshine outside! With Daria Shapovalova in Kiev Passage. Also in Minsk, creativity and fashion are starting to spread like circles in the water. …

Diversity in fashion - Balenciaga aw16

Diversity in fashion

The Balenciaga show took place during Paris Fashion Week a little bit more than a week ago, but some people discussed not only the collection itself, but also the fact that Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga`s new Creative Director and the co-founder of Vetements, chose no black models for the show. I read such comments on Facebook and heard a couple more outside of the online world. It made me reflect a lot and, as a result, we wanted to join the debate on diversity in fashion. Demna Gvasalia First of all, why is the issue about “no black models” only? Are there no models of other skin colour and national origin? There are so many, and I bet that among every nation, there are girls, who dream of becoming models, which is great, and we should do our best to make an environment, where it is possible, as well as setting a standard, where different races is ‘The new Normal’. I was grateful for Waris Ahluwalia`s interview in Dazed, in general, but especially the following part, …

Changing Fashion System

The changing Fashion System

Just like everyone predicted at the end of the previous year, 2016 is ludicrous. It is only the beginning of March, but the changing fashion system is on everybody’s lips. Fashion week season is on, and media cannot stop publishing new articles on the matter of the changes, that are taking place in the fashion industry right now. “See now, Buy now” is the goal of those, who are leading these changes, but there are others, who do not agree, that it is a good idea. Though a number of designers in New York and London are among the pioneers of this change, Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode and Camera Nazionale della Moda have already made official statements, that they are not planning to make any such changes in the schedule. Representative of both organizations have pointed out that both France and Italy have always valued craftsmanship and this is going to stay, and will not be negotiated in a new and more immediate system. However, …