All posts filed under: The Fashion System

Kiev fashion designers - Marianna Senchina aw16

Meet the new Kiev Fashion Designers

Just as Copenhagen Fashion Week took place last week – at the other side of Europe there was Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. Kiev has been doing remarkably well during the last couple of years in establishing itself as a fashion city and is quite a case study in how to enter the fashion scene of global importance among very strong players. Many things have to be in place, but at the end of the day, it comes down to the talent, and in this case; the Kiev fashion designers. I would like to start by saying that most shows in Kiev are organized in a slightly different manner than in the main fashion capitals. Most of them take place at the same venue for many reasons (both practical and financial), which is actually quite convenient,­­ as you do not have to go by car all the time and spend extra time in traffic. However, the truth is that every show or presentation that takes place in a unique location, offers a possibility for the designer to …

Copenhagen fashion week aw16 - Barbara I Gongini

Copenhagen Fashion Week aw16

Last week, it was Copenhagen fashion week aw16, and after three hectic days of running around, my colleagues and I are now left with a feeling of utter pride and respect of what’s going on at the Danish fashion scene. Alas, it has been good for years but with each season, it’s taking on new dimensions. Danish Fashion Institute (DAFI) has over the years done an impressive piece of work, and this year season was actually the 10th anniversary. As Eva Kruse, CEO of DAFI, put it: ‘Happy Birthday #cphfw .’ A lot of fantastic work was shown and there were numerous cool events to attend. Below are some of the moments that somehow made an impression on us in challenging our beliefs and aesthetics and making us look forward to the next winter season. HAN Kjobenhavn (above) – it reminds me of driving through the concrete suburbs of Moscow a couple of years ago after attending fashion week, and asking the taxi driver, why the radio was playing Ace of Base (Bear in mind this was …

Fashion&Tech - Ksenia Schnaider

Ksenia Schnaider on Fashion&Tech

Ksenia Schnaider is an innovative, conceptual brand created by a creative duo from Ukraine – Ksenia and Anton Schnaider. It has been on the market for five years now and is well-known for bold prints and clean ideas behind the pieces. Most of the things this creative couple touches is more or less involved with technology, and this is why I talked to them about the role of fashion&tech in creating and promoting their brand.  How would you describe the Ksenia Schnaider brand? Who is this girl for whom you are designing? What is she like?  She is a modern woman in a big city; she is honest with herself, and she is learning how to be honest with her environment. She is not perfect, but she knows how to look beautiful. She is a workaholic, but, at the same time, she knows how to party, and she loves spending time with her family. What is your overall strategy promoting the brand offline and online?  We love to combine technologies from everyday life in our fashion …

Cape Town street style

Cape Town Street Style

I will never stop to emphasize the importance of travelling (read more about that here) and seeing with your own eyes, how people translate culture and other influences into design, fashion, concept stores, shops, cafés, bars, restaurants and hotels – or with other words: everything life style. It’s in the cities that this happens, and the metropolises are like magnates to young people, creatives, and everyone else curious. I recently went to Cape Town, and below is a selection of my favourite Cape Town street style. Tribe coffee bar. Unfortunately travelling isn’t always possible, and it’s in this case that the Internet offers such a rich source of inspiration, as we’re allowed to see things through someone else’s eyes. It’s at the same time inspiring on both a personal and professional level, and if you work in fashion design, having new inputs are crucial to the design process. Another huge benefit is becoming aware of the type of consumer(s) that inhabit the city. When working in the global fashion industry, and today with social media …

the end of fashion shows

Is it the end of Fashion Shows?

A little more than a week ago, an article was published by WWD on how the Council of Fashion Designers of America has hired Boston Consulting Group to re-think the calendar and dynamics of the fashion industry, in particular the fashion shows. It’s an excellent read, which we tweeted on Twitter (follow us here) with many insights from industry professionals. What has changed everything is social media, as you can see images and videos of collections up to six months before they hit the stores, and buy cheaper copies from fast fashion brands, while the originals are being produced. By the time these original items hit the stores, most consumers are so tired of looking at them, that they aren’t interested in buying anymore. Winners: fast-fashion brands. Losers: Ready-to-Wear/Pret-a-Porter brands. What will happen, and will it be the end of fashion shows? If we look at history, small in-house presentations were made for an exclusive circle of clients in the days, when Pret-a-Porter (PAP) wasn’t born yet, and only haute couture was around. This was …

Are there too many fashion brands - Miu Miu

Are there too many fashion brands?

The world is big, yes, but all the time we hear about new fashion brands coming out wishing to establish their own line. What I remember from my own experience and from teaching at fashion school is that most young designers – with a few exceptions who want to pursue a path with the big brands – dream about one day having their own label. Social media have offered formats where expressing your art and what you have inside have been made fun, easy and instant, but the dream about having your own brand is still there. One question remains; are there too many fashion brands today? The world is literally packed with designers and brands, and looking online or strolling in big cities give you an idea about the amount of goods being on offer. In theory, we don’t need more of anything, but a part from the urge to express our style and look presentable (consumers’ need), society as a whole, from economic growth to the end consumer, will need new talent to interpret …

young fashion consumers

Young Fashion Consumers

Today nobody questions the role and importance of fashion, and everybody’s continuous engagement with it as natural fashion consumers. It has become and integrated and important part of our lives, and just during the last 10 years much has happened mainly thanks to media. Most of us take dressing according to our tastes and values for granted, and it’s a clear sign that we have our basic needs covered, and have reached the top level of Self-actualization in Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. Because this is exactly what fashion is about: self-realisation, and self-expression, which are directly linked to our identity, and especially to young fashion consumers, this is something ultra important. It’s also the epitome of why fashion isn’t superficial – identity never can be. During our lives, our relationship to fashion changes. When we’re kids, we pay less attention to fashion, a part from some very strong desires rooted in us about especially what colours and types of garments, we want to wear. From the age of 3-4, little girls want to wear pink, …

what happens after fashion week

What happens after fashion week?

As fashion weeks are drawing to an end, everyone involved seem to take a rest and look back at weeks full of runway shows with stunning clothes, collection reviews summarising and celebrating, meeting friends and people in the industry, discussing how the business is going, following street style looks and what everyone is wearing, while all the time having kept up with the analogue world on social media. Parties, models, guest lists, front row, delays and trying to hail a taxi – now all that is behind us, and there’s at least a month before a smaller version of all the buzz will kick in again with the pre-fall collections. It’s time to take a rest, as the frenzy leaves the body, and somehow make sense of all the impressions, and summarise collections from four corners of the world into what will be the key trends. This is important for everyone in the industry from buyers to designers, as well as PR, trend forecasters, and textile mills. But what happens after fashion week? The Sales …

Paris fashion week for new designers

Paris Fashion Week for new designers

Everyone knows that Paris Fashion Week is the cherry on the fashion pie. It is the last of the ‘Fashion Four’ but definitely not the least important. Rather the other way around, actually, and one knows that Paris matters more than New York, London and Milan. This is perhaps too strong of a statement, and depends a lot on what kind of a designer you are, but if you do well in Paris, you will be just fine anywhere else. As a result, with such a level of responsibility, you can imagine how busy Paris is, and how hard it is for the new designers without world-known names to get into the fashion week schedule and present their collections in the dream city. So what are the options at Paris Fashion Week for new designers? I would like to make clear right away that I am not even going to mention “having a show in Paris”, because this is not something available for the new generation of upcoming designers, who are only at the beginning …

Copenhagen Fashion Week ss16 - Henrik Vibskov

Copenhagen Fashion Week ss16

A lot of things can be said about Copenhagen Fashion Week ss16 (CPHFW), but what comes to my mind is that in a world where everything is accessible immediately and worldwide (thanks to the Internet), the joy of experiencing something more niche starts to be increasingly appealing – like joining an exclusive club. While everyone has been to Berlin, Barcelona and NYC, still not everyone has been to Copenhagen, and especially not Copenhagen Fashion Week. Henrik Vibskov HAN Kjobenhavn It’s no secret that the Danish Fashion Week is less renowned and visited than some of the more established fashion capitals, but it’s exactly because of this, it has an interesting appeal and allure. And this is after all what matters; the mood and brand of CPHFW, its designers and attendees. It’s no longer about the hype of having as many followers (or visitors) as possible, but about the quality you have with them. Freya Dalsjø Ivan Grundahl So what is Danish Fashion like? Being from Copenhagen myself, I would summarise it like this: Copenhagen is the …