As young talents are our main focus at The Fashion Crowd, we decided to dedicate a special post to them, and their showcasing of their work during Copenhagen Fashion Week at Designers Nest fashion competition.
Some of the most famous fashion schools, we have in Scandinavia, were represented, and students were showing from Kolding School of Design (Denmark), VIA Design (Denmark), KEA School of Design and Technology (Denmark), The Royal Danish Academy of Arts, Swedish School of Textiles, Beckmans College of Design (Sweden), Oslo National Academy of the Arts, Iceland Academy of the Arts and Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture (Finland).
The work was evaluated on four criteria, and they were 1/use of innovative fabrics, 2/creativity, 3/possibility of commercialism and 4/ Originality and power to propel. In a competition, it’s actually always crucial to keep these in mind, as it’s easy to get carried away when beautiful work come down the runway, and you feel that every single designer is a winner. The criteria in this care are a nice balance of being highly creative, yet not forgetting the link to the industry. They were presented to the guests of the show before it started, and it gave a nice, contextual frame of what eyes to view the show with.
The Winner of the 1st prize was Camilla Arnbert from Swedish School of Textiles (above), and her collection is a skilled blend of the above-mentioned criteria. There’s yet another dimension to her total looks, and that’s the fact that this collection could actually easily be worn. When I say ‘easily’, I don’t mean, you would throw it on and go to the supermarket, but it’s not so ‘over-the-top’ as to simply belong to something going on in the crazy world of fashion with no connection to the real world. This, I believe, is the real talent – balancing this too.
The winner of the 2nd prize was Katrine Hoffmann from The Royal Danish Academy of Arts (above). The choice of materials are highly innovative, but it’s somehow toned down with the use of very subtle and sophisticated colours and the feminine silhouette almost lacking in importance. With fabric innovation and clever fibre mixing, a commercial solution to this is perhaps not too far out in the future.
The winner of the 3rd prize was Maria Suomalainen from Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture (above). The very tactile collection was exclusively a focus on surface, and colours and experimentation with shape had been eliminated. This is actually a really good example of one way of doing a strong collection: weighting what is important and must be in the limelight, and what is not important, and should be kept in the background.
Of the 27 students that showed their collection, there were other three entries that really exited me at the Designers Nest fashion competition.
Signe Dahl Jørgensen from VIA Design (above). I recently read an article with Demna Gvasalia from Vetements, who has also been appointed Creative Director of Balanciaga, and he made some interesting comments on being a designer, designing and how to make a successful collection, people want to actually buy. Below is an extract from the interview:
“How do you make something that people already know, but they still want to buy because they don’t have one? This is the challenge we have to face every six months, which is an exciting challenge for a designer I think. That’s what motivates me. Every time we are having a fitting and we are trying things on we say, “Ok, what do we do with this one now to make it wantable?” That’s hard. It’s much harder than decorating something with beautiful material and shapes.”
The reason, I came to think about the article, was because, I looked at Signe’s work and actually thought to myself that I would really like to buy pieces from this collection – be this woman.
Katharina Vinzenca Ludwigka Schmalz from Kolding School of Design (above) made a intelligent, yet desirable minimal collection that was still rich enough in clever detail to be very exciting. It’s just cool, really, the balance of things. When you do minimal, it’s difficult not to fall into a path trotted by some prior designer, as there have been many very good ones, but her curious details show a style of her own.
Emma Lindqvist from Swedish School of Textiles (above) made a print collection, and in the meeting with the silhouette, this becomes very exciting. I’m especially find of the first one, and I can’t help to think of Henrik Vibskov and how he has also developed a whole Graphic Samurai silhouette of his own. Will be interesting to see, how Emma moves on from here.