With the fashion weeks ss17 well behind, it’s now time to decipher what the strongest messages are, and what the key fashion trends ss17 will be. As we always do, we started out with collecting images and looks that inspired us on our Pinterest boards divided by cities, and they’re a great help in quickly finding the strongest images and being reminded of the various designer collections.
When we speak about fashion trends for a given season – and in this case fashion trends ss17 – there’s a difference between the trends that will be really successful with the buyers and customers and shape, what we will see in the shops and streets in six months time, and then the trends, little signals (which we have on previous occasions called ‘sparkling stars’), that will somehow influence the following fashion season aw17/18.
It’s essentially a question of understanding where a given trend is on the trend curve; incoming, peaking, outgoing. Fast Fashion brands will look at peaking and do ‘what is hot’ for the season. Pret-a-Porter brands will look at what is incoming (sparkling stars), and what can perhaps inspire them for the next season. This is also what Trend Forecasters will look at. Fashion Retailers and Buyers will look at incoming and peaking depending on how fashion-forward their clientele is.
In any case, no matter who you are, and who you design for or sell to, it’s about understanding where fashion is coming from, so it will be easier to understand, where it’s going.
Taking a look at aw16 and Resort 17 are great reminders, and makes it easier to see a certain pattern. The flared tulle skirts have been around for a long time, and so has the colour red – among others. They continue to play an important role in ss17, as well as a general focus on streetwear au courant with Vetements that continues to exercise significant influence.
The colours yellow and purple that we started noticing in aw16 with brands like Valentino and Kenzo putting them forward are now in ‘full bloom’, or with other words; peaking. And, speaking of colours, pink also continues to play an important role with power brands like Celine, Balenciaga and Valentino not being quite finished with it and finding exciting ways of reworking the strong, yet feminine colour. The same thing goes for the optical details first proposed by Gucci that Thom Browne and Undercover have now reworked.
When we at The Fashion Crowd look at Trend Research and Forecasting, we divide the vibrations in three categories:
- Macro Trends (read more about the Trend Levels here) that are being re-interpreted season after season – think flower print and urban – and what changes is the ‘how‘ it’s done.
- Micro Trends, which are Peaking Trends, and what is normally just characterised as ‘trends’. It’s what’s hot right now and will be for about 2-4 seasons.
- Sparkling Stars, the little signals that will give a hint of what’s to come and influence the future. This is what is exciting to Trend Forecasters.
Balenciaga – Carven – Fendi – Rodarte
Fausto Puglisi – Givenchy – Christopher Kane – Marco de Vincenzo
Kenzo – Isabel Marant – Marni – Stella McCartney
Chloe – Proenza Schouler – Roksanda – Chloe
The Hermes Lady
Roksanda – Bottega Veneta – Victoria Beckham – Derek Lam
Carolina Herrera – Hussein Chalayan – Olivier Theyskens – The Row
Black White Print
Emilio Pucci – Preen – Proenza Schouler – Vionnet
This list is by no means exhaustive, and other themes like Victorian, Street, 3D, Artsy and Conceptual etc. can be researched based on the actual brand and customer that one works for. The trends above are the ones that we found most exciting and relevant.
Erdem – Rick Owens – Preen – Mulberry
Purple, with some pink
Balenciaga – Gareth Pugh – Nina Ricci – Preen
Celine – Valentino – Loewe – Balenciaga
Celine – Isabel Marant – Christian Dior – Rodarte
Vetements – Celine – Prabal Gurung – Mary Katrantzou
Haider Ackermann – Philip Lim – Jason Wu – Mulberry
Celine – Christian Siriano – Kenzo – Giambattista Valli
Make a Statement
Ann Demeulemeester – Christian Dior – Christopher Kane – Prabal Guring
Round Oversize Shoulders
Kenzo – Stella McCartney – Isabel Marant – Barbara Bui
But what are then some of the newer vibes that are going to again influence the future? Take a look below and see what excites us of the fashion trends ss17! Of course, bear in mind, that trends are not always global but often also local, and that no trend report can ever be used uncritically, as ones actual brand and customer must be taken into consideration of what’s eventually going to work the following season.
Balenciaga – Carven – Celine – Maison Margiela
Giamba – Gucci – Mary Katrantzou – Stella Jean
Balenciaga – Jason Wu – Louis Vuitton – Miu Miu
DKNY – Issey Miyake – Stella McCartney – Vetements
Kenzo – Miu Miu – Rochas – Francesco Scognamiglio
Haider Ackermann – Vionnet – Dries van Noten – Jil Sander
Square Oversize Shoulders
Jil Sander – Louis Vuitton – Gucci – Balenciaga
3D Shoulders & Sleeves
Gucci – Rodarte – Delpozo – Carolina Herrera
Fendi – Francesco Scognamiglio – Erdem – Zac Posen
Fendi – Delpozo – Thom Browne – Kenzo
Alexander McQueen – Simone Rocha – Giambattista Valli – Mulberry